by ETHAN WHEATCROFT - April 12, 2021May 7, 2021

ADIDAS – REMAINING SILENT IS NOT A NEUTRAL POSITION

In 2020, many groundbreaking situations hit the world. The murder of George Floyd being the most talked about, and quite rightly so. The murder raised popularity in the Black Lives Matter social movement, following protests all around the world against those who do nothing to protect black people, this being police, politicians, presidents, prime ministers and many more.

These troubling events launched many campaigns from brands worldwide, some offering plenty of advice on how to protect black communities, legal advice and how white people can improve, whilst other brands donated proceeds from some sales to Black Lives Matter charities such as the George Floyd Memorial Foundation. Even seeing Adidas share posts of support from Nike, brands are working together.

“For once, Don’t Do It.”
(Adidas, 2020).

In June 2020, Adidas launched a pledge on social media site, Twitter. The opening to this thread was a simple but strong message. “BLACK LIVES MATTER”.

Along with the Twitter thread, the sportswear brand vowed to implement three steps of action, these steps being people, communities and accountability. Including a 120 million dollar investment in university scholarships for Black employees, the hiring of more Black employees and Black communities (Highsnobiety, 2020).

Adidas began by saying “Remaining silent is not a neutral position when the people we should be standing with live in fear of police brutality due to systemic racism.” (Adidas, 2020).

Adidas held responsibility over their actions in the past, mentioning the celebration of many black athletes and artists, saying they used the image to define themselves culturally as a brand. They stated that they “missed the message in reflecting such little representation within our walls.” (Adidas, 2020). Although it’s seen as maybe too late to address these issues, owning up to their previous mistakes is the first step to improving as a brand and engaging more with how their image should be, whilst also standing for their athletes and other representatives beliefs.

“Own Up To Our Silence.”
(Adidas, 2020).

PEOPLE – The first pledge from Adidas was to introduce a new hiring programme in a bid to hire more black employees, to remove hiring bias, create more accountability and oversight and increase representation (Adidas, 2020). The pledge also states that 30 percent of all positions will aim to be filled with Black and Latinx talent, this applies for internal and external positions. Finally, 50 percent of open positions will aim to be filled with diverse talent inclusive of all groups, from gender, disabilities, sexual orientation and veterans (Adidas, 2020).

COMMUNITIES – Adidas’ second commitment is to help the Black communities in need that are actively impacted by the lack of funding. A dedicated team had been started to manage and facilitate the funding of the brands programs which are in place to support and empower the Black communities (Adidas, 2020). This pledge also includes the 120million dollar commitment as previously mentioned.

ACCOUNTABILITY – A zero tolerance policy in place shows the brand must stick to their claims and actions for protecting the Black community, fighting all forms of racism, showing their loyal consumers, artists, athletes, models and many more that they are going above and beyond to fight the hate. Adidas stated “If there is evidence of retaliation offenders will be terminated. To ensure fairness and safety we are putting in place a 3rd party investigator to govern our policy and keep us accountable.” (Adidas, 2020).

Overall, I feel it’s important to recognise the impact Adidas are trying to create on the societal issues and their efforts to improve the world, educate others and fund those in need. Expressing their frustration on social media with these societal issues was a strong idea, reaching a mixed but primarily younger audience who can take influence from this and put the same education into their family and friends.

It is also important to teach more on black culture, artists, athletes and the overall community to others. According to Euromonitor, over 60% in each age group (15-60+) Agree or Strongly Agree that it is important to experience cultures other than their own (Euromonitor , 2020).

Consumer Values in the United Kingdom.
(Euromonitor , 2020)

Opening up more to the general public on these issues and making your consumers take part in helping these causes is an important way of stronger engagement to those involved with the brand. Adidas took upon the opportunity to do exactly this and have since began to do what every other brand should be doing, protecting black lives and educating those who can help too. Adidas recognised their reach, and used their platform to its abilities.

If you are neutral in situations of injustice, you have chosen the side of the oppressor.

George Floyd Memorial Fund: https://www.gofundme.com/f/georgefloyd

Assisting support for the mother of Ahmaud Arbery: https://www.gofundme.com/f/i-run-with-maud

Black Lives Matter global network: https://secure.actblue.com/donate/ms_blm_homepage_2019

National Bail Out: https://secure.actblue.com/donate/freeblackmamas2020

Minnesota Freedom Fund: https://minnesotafreedomfund.org/donate

Bibliography

Adidas, 2020. Black Lives Matter.. [Online]
Available at: https://twitter.com/adidas/status/1270800410136195072
[Accessed 7 May 2021].

Adidas, 2020. Together is how we move forward. ⁣ Together is how we make change.. [Online]
Available at: https://twitter.com/adidas/status/1266594990559379457
[Accessed 7 May 2021].

Euromonitor , 2020. Lifestyles: Consumer Values in the United Kingdom, s.l.: Euromonitor. [Accessed 7 May 2021].

Highsnobiety, 2020. ADIDAS PLEDGES $120 MILLION TO BLACK COMMUNITIES & VOWS TO HIRE MORE BLACK EMPLOYEES. [Online]
Available at: https://www.highsnobiety.com/p/adidas-hiring-more-black-employees/
[Accessed 7 May 2021].

by ETHAN WHEATCROFT - March 23, 2021May 4, 2021

GUCCI MX – A GENDER NEUTRAL COLLECTION

Gender fluid clothing is slowly becoming more and more popular within the fashion industry and is often showing smaller labels or fast fashion labels taking inspiration from those higher up with a larger and more loyal audience. Celebrities are more regularly captured at events shown across the world wearing gender fluid clothing, from Harry Styles’ many outfits for Gucci to Billy Porters famous tuxedo dress. Not only are these celebrities showing that clothing has no gender, they are also creating an influence for the younger generation going ahead.

In 2020, designer Alessandro Michele introduced Gucci’s first ever non-binary, gender-fluid collection called Gucci Mx. The collection began from Fall/Winter 2020 and features pieces every season which don’t conform to one specific gender. Gucci have also included an iconic bag to this release from 1961 named the ‘Jackie’, one of Jackie Kennedy’s favourite designs. Gucci enlisted photographer Angelo Pennetta to photograph gender-neutral models wearing the Jackie bag. The campaign has showcased models wearing a wide range of eye catching garments, such as a pair of metallic green flares and the iconic Jackie bag (Hypebeast, 2020).

When visiting the genderless section on Gucci’s page, you can find more information on Gucci Mx and the reasonings behind starting this. Gucci’s landing page reads “Gucci’s collections set out to deconstruct preconceived binaries and question how these concepts relate to our bodies. Celebrating self-expression in the name of all gender equality, the House presents MX.” (Gucci, n.d.). Gucci Mx separates their products into four sections from Ready-to-wear, Handbags and Luggage, Accessories and Shoes (Gucci, n.d.).

Gucci Mx’s four categories on the genderless range (Gucci, n.d.).

The importance of Gucci’s Mx collection is significant in meeting the requirements for all of their consumers but also linking this with the currently social environment and showing how genderless clothing is way more relaxed and respected compared to how it was a 5-10 years back, whilst Gucci are not the first to explore these options, it can be argued that they are one of the largest and most influential brands to be taking gender fluidity that one step closer to being treat as normal. Similar brands such as Telfar, Hood by Air and Rihanna’s Fenty and Fenty Beauty have also taken a genderless approach, from clothing to makeup and skincare.

On Gucci’s Mx landing page, a statement also reads “The House’s collections emphasize the dissolving lines of the gender divide in the name of self expression. Playing with the constructive nature of gender, MX underlines the performative nature of what we wear, presenting masculinity and femininity as relative concepts.” (Gucci, n.d.).

Some of Gucci’s imagery for the advertising campaign were illustrated by artists for Frankenstein Magazine and show cartoon like illustrations of men and women wearing genderless clothing, one of the main drawings which stood out to me was a man with pink long hair, wearing baggy suit pants, loafers and a sweatshirt combined with ankle bracelets and the Jackie bag. I feel this shows how genderless clothing can be represented even through drawings.

Illustration for Gucci Mx and Frankenstein Magazine (Gucci, n.d.).

Overall, it can be recognised that brands introducing gender neutral campaigns and collections can be a strong point for their brand image and their overall consumers, along with influence onto the current society. Gucci also marketed Mx via Instagram, reaching 87 thousand likes and overall positive reactions across social media to this campaign. Gucci are in a strong position to do a good job of this and I feel it represents their current image and shows what their designer stands for.

Gender neutral clothing needs to be branched out more in the fashion industry. Consumers are ready for the launches of these collections, especially Gen Z consumers. Phluid Project founder Rob Smith said at the WWD Culture Conference that 56 percent of Generation Z consumers shop “outside their assigned gendered area.” (Anyanwu, 2020). WWD also stated “The generation has a buying power of $143 billion, and an influence of up to $200 billion, according to Smith at the Culture Conference, and that is before all members have entered the workforce.” (Anyanwu, 2020). Regardless of which generation is in charge, its important to understand consumers have some form of charge on the impact and shift of a brand, therefore stores must look at the limitations when going forward with a new range (Anyanwu, 2020).

Bibliography

Anyanwu, O., 2020. Decoding Genderless Fashion, the Future of the Industry. [Online]
Available at: https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-features/genderless-fashion-future-of-industry-1203381685/
[Accessed 4 May 2021].

Gucci, n.d.. Gucci Mx. [Online]
Available at: https://www.gucci.com/us/en/st/mx-landing
[Accessed 4 May 2021].

Hypebeast, 2020. Gucci Mx Line Explores Gender Fluidity Within Fashion. [Online]
Available at: https://hypebeast.com/2020/7/gucci-mx-non-binary-gender-fluid-collection-fall-winter-2020-jackie-1961-bag-lookbook
[Accessed 4 May 2021].

by ETHAN WHEATCROFT - March 23, 2021May 4, 2021

PATAGONIA – DON’T BUY THIS JACKET

In 2011, Patagonia, an outdoor clothing company founded by Yvon Chouinard in 1973, launched a head turning advert in The New York Times telling their consumers and the general public “Don’t Buy This Jacket”, followed with the Common Threads Initiative of reduce, repair, reuse, recycle. The brand hoped the headline alone would be enough for someone to read the entire ad (Patagonia, 2011).

Patagonia explained it was time for them to address the issues of consumerism direct, wanting their customers to lighten the environmental footprint by not buying as much new clothing, stating that companies need to make the effort to produce fewer longer lasting clothing of higher quality. “Customers need to think twice before they buy” (Patagonia, 2011).

The outdoor brand said they chose The New York Times as they feel it’s the most important national newspaper. They chose to run the ad over Black Friday which signifies the start of retail in the holiday season. Patagonia said “we should be the only retailer in the country asking people to buy less on Black Friday.” (Patagonia, 2011).

Reasoning behind this ad can be seen from different perspectives, I see this as an outdoor company that want to make a change to the world and be the brand that influence others to do the same. When discussing the reasoning behind this advert, Patagonia explained every garment they produce steals a piece from the earth that we’ll never be able to give back, every piece of clothing produced by the brand emits several times its weight in greenhouse gases, draws down numerous amounts of freshwater and generates at least another half garment’s worth of scrap, all of these elements happen regardless, even if the garment is organic or uses recycled materials (Patagonia, 2011).

**Patagonia: We’re Taxing Ourselves (Patagonia, n.d.).**

Patagonia aimed to work hard for an environmental change, launching their own environmental activism section on their website featuring their pledges, other activists stories on environmental impact and sections on how their consumers can do their part. One of the key pledges I saw on their activism page was the self-imposed Earth tax, 1% for the Planet, providing support to environmental nonprofits working hard to defend the planet. They also mentioned how their Global Sport Activists are using their roles in the sporting community to speak out on positive social and environment change. Furthermore, Patagonia connected with environmental groups to take action on ongoing issues in society, helping the general public discover events, petitions and volunteering opportunities, whilst also providing links to donate money to local causes (Patagonia, n.d.).

Whilst they wanted this ad to show the important changes that need to happen for a greener environment, they needed to explain why they told customers not to buy their products, as it would be hypocritical to advocate for environmental change without taking part themselves. Patagonia insist that to make these changes, customers must reduce their consumption whilst allowing the brand to do the important step of making garments in more environmentally sensitive and less harmful ways. Patagonia said “On the other hand, it’s folly to assume that a healthy economy can be based on buying and selling more and more things people don’t need – and it’s time for people who believe that’s folly to say so.” (Patagonia, 2011)

In 2011 at the launch of this ad, the brand understood they were still a growing business and wanted to stay high up in the outdoor and sport community. Patagonia discussed the test of their sincerity or hypocrisy will be built upon how useful their products are in terms of sustainability and multifunctional. The brand admitted that they were “not yet entirely there” and that not all of their products meets this criteria yet, however explaining that their Common Threads Initiative served as framework for their future goals for a more sustainable future (Patagonia, 2011).

**Trade in, Get Paid (Patagonia, WornWear, n.d.).**

Finally, Patagonia launched a site ‘Worn Wear’, selling all worn and donated clothing made by themselves, asking customers to repair, share and recycle to extend the life of their gear, whilst also credit towards the next purchase on a used or new garment (Patagonia, WornWear, n.d.).

“One of the most responsible things we can do as a company is make high-quality stuff that lasts for years, so you don’t have to buy more of it.
Buying used extends a garment’s life by about two years, which cuts its combined carbon, waste, and water footprint by 82%.” (Patagonia, WornWear, n.d.).

Bibliography

Patagonia, WornWear, n.d.. Worn Wear is Patagonia’s hub for keeping gear in play.. [Online]
Available at: https://wornwear.patagonia.com
[Accessed 28 April 2021].

Patagonia, 2011. Don’t Buy This Jacket, Black Friday and the New York Times. [Online]
Available at: https://eu.patagonia.com/gb/en/stories/dont-buy-this-jacket-black-friday-and-the-new-york-times/story-18615.html
[Accessed 28 April 2021].

Patagonia, n.d.. Environmental Activism. [Online]
Available at: https://www.patagonia.com/activism/
[Accessed 28 April 2021].