The world of fashion and queer culture have always been interconnected. The LGBTQ+ community has often used clothing to identify similar others and proclaim their identity, constantly challenging gender norms in their appearance. Therefore, it would only make sense that in recent years, more queer people are featured in runways or campaigns, especially in the trans community in which many transgender and non-binary models are seeing more representation and inclusivity in the industry. Mugler under Casey Cadwallader champions this with the inclusion of plus-size bodies and a mix of gender identities.
Mugler’s Spring/Summer Ready-to-Wear collection was split into two different parts. Part 01 debuted on the 21st of October. This featured a mix of different models donning bold and androgynous pieces. This is shown especially with the blazers, which relied on heavy shoulders and skinny waists. March 31st, 2021 saw Mugler debuting Part 02 of their Spring/Summer Ready-to-Wear collection, with creative director Casey Cadwallader presenting the runway show through a short yet heavily edited video. The video also featured a lot of bodysuits, which became a staple for Mugler last year, worn by the likes of Dua Lipa, Cardi B, and Megan thee Stallion. In an interview with Vogue, he said that “The runway can be intense and scary… but when you’re doing a film you can mess around, play, and edit,” which would explain the rewinding of footage.
The pieces were worn by many familiar faces, with that of Xu Meen and Ariish Wol for the first part, Soo Joo Park and Aida Bleu for the second part, Bella Hadid for both parts, and many more.
Cadwallader had also collaborated with four transgender models (two per video) on the runway. Part 01 featured Raya Martigny, a trans model, and actress who has worked with the likes of Maison Margiela, Off-White, and Fantabody, who actively advocates for diversity and trans issues. In an interview with Vogue Italia, she says “I try not to give up and “educate” people about diversity. I know it’s not easy, but I believe that I have the right energy to do it.” Part 01 also had poet, model, and activist Kai-Isaiah Jamal, who actively expresses their experiences as a trans person. They were also the first black trans model to walk for Louis Vuitton.
Part 02 starred Hunter Schafer, known for her role in hit show Euphoria, was seen wearing a glittery nude dress, at the same time as having water poured on her. The real star of the show, however, was Dominique ‘Elektra’ Jackson, known for her role in the hit show Pose. The idol was wearing a bodysuit with strips across the chest and grown area and was thrown a blazer mid-walk. There was also the use of queer music artists being used in the video, with ShyGirl and Ms. Boogie, all during the International Trans Day of Visibility.
This is not the first time Mugler has collaborated with the queer community. Cadwallader worked with French vogue dancer Alex Duval aka ‘ChaChou Mugler’ as one of the faces for Mugler’s 2020 Resort Look.
Cadwallader’s usage of the queer and trans community can be considered as genius for many reasons. For one, it pays homage to Thierry Mugler and his spring/summer 1992 show in which he worked with drag artist Lypsinka, an iconic collaboration with fashion and the drag community. Also, it introduces a conversation about queer and trans visibility in the industry, ranging from the casting to the music used in the video, giving a platform for queer artists as well as normalising trans women in high fashion runways. This can especially be said for the iconic Dominique Jackson; trans and queer women of colour are given little to no representation in media. Filmmaker Madeline Lim says that while today there are more films about LGBTQ+ people, many do not feature people of colour or transgender people. Even Raya Martigny said in her interview with Vogue Italia that it is still very complicated to find a job. So, working with the likes of Dominque Jackson and many others allows for a positive representation of trans people. It shows that trans people and trans people of colour can also reach positions of success in whatever industry they want to work in. Trans model Munroe Bergdorf put it perfectly when she said, “The more trans models become visible, the more they become normalised”.
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