CUSTOME POINT OF VIEW – Cultural Appropriation
Multiculturalism changes are made daily on the luxury market and not only, the changes being spread in different domains. The globalisation having a strong impact on population changes from mono to multiculturalism.
With reference to the international marketing of luxury brands, cross-cultural influences play a vital role. It is through globalisation that these influences can be examined and understood. The aim of this blog is the study of the view that luxury fashion markets reflect multiple cultural beliefs.
Mostly the changes are bringing variety and the customers seems to embrace this multiculturalism, but unfortunately is playing with a large diversity of options products and elements. The success is not always guaranteed.
Focusing on the luxury industry we can see how multicultural advertising for a larger range of customers and increasing the variety of cosmetics products for dark skin , men make up or adding new products for afro hair was a success . This actions created a great feedback from the consumers. But not all the multicultural actions end up good for the brands.
Gucci had a cultural appropriation issue after they lunch their “multicultural collection” with accessories elements called “Indy Turbans” by the famous brand in fall 2018 runway show.
Gucci’s creative director Alessandro Michele was inspired by Donna Haraway’s 1984 essay on ‘A Cyborg Manifesto’, the essay blurs the lines which separate humans from animals and machines. In this Gucci was trying to make the first moves in a multicultural zone and show their appreciation of different cultures getting inspired from key elements from very well know religious and architectural traditional elements from Asian countries.
As this inspiration came in the form of turbans, head scarves and accessories to reflect Asian architecture, and luxury twists on these influences, bringing a mesh of culture and fashion to the fore.
But the idea hasn’t been appreciated by the public. Gucci has been lambasted for selling a headscarf for $790 called, ‘Indy Full Turban’, with many feeling insulted by the insensitivity towards Sikh’s and their culture.
Lamisa Khan, a reporter at Amaliah, which represents Muslim women, was criticising Gucci for their lack of understanding towards the culture and the meaning of this religion and cultural elements which can’t be used in such a way as ‘high fashion’ as this will be offensive to people and their beliefs.
“The turban look was an absolute mockery and the bindi. It doesn’t feel like it’s done by accident anymore. It’s as though they’re doing it on purpose for attention,” she said.
“Imagine growing up being mocked for wearing henna, a hijab, turban or bindi and then seeing it on a catwalk considered to be fashionable and its actual meaning and cultural importance neglected and side lined for the purpose of aesthetic for that season”.
The brand been even accused of doing this “mistake “ intentionally to get the attention from the public.
But the brand seems to be stepping back and apologising to the offended public. Because this wasn’t the impact which they was looking for. As a reaction to the outcry, Gucci’s chief executive officer, Marco Bizarri, travelled to Harlem with chief collaborator Dapper Dan, to meet community members and industry leaders to learn about inclusivity and accountability. Since this trip, Gucci has created a number of directives within the company to raise awareness of cultural diversity.
The brands reaction to the crisis was very well take care of, even if Gucci made a big mistake and a lot of people including their customers has been offended, the brand manage to clean and refresh their image in a very remarkable way. On Gucci’s official website can be still found their actions going on, where the brand has create new position to make sure that this incident is not going to happen again by creating positions for Global and Reginal Director for Diversity and Inclusion. And they invest also in education offering multi-cultural scholarship and global exchange programs cultivating new talent and promoting a multicultural and diverse workplace.
Gucci official wbsite:
References:
Gucci Accused of Cultural Appropriation Over ‘Indy Turban’ by Layla Ilchi, May 16, 2019: https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-scoops/gucci-indy-turban-cultural-appropriation-backlash-1203132880/
Gucci Criticised for Cultural Appropriation on a Global Scale by Tahmina Begum,Feb 22, 2018
Gucci website:https://www.gucci.com/uk/en_gb/st/stories/gucci-equilibrium/article/actions-for-diversity-and-inclusion
Advertising to black consumers on the decline as their spending power grows by Sarah Ramirez September 18,2019: https://www.luxurydaily.com/advertising-to-black-consumers-on-the-decline-as-their-spending-power-grows/
Multicultural Beauty: Benefits from Diversity, Mar 2016: